Thursday, January 17, 2013

Champion 46515 Product Review

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First thing is the price is outstanding for a generator of this size (6.5 HP engine, 3500 watts continuous). The quick start guide was excellent to quickly assemble the generator. Only thing is you should drain the small amount of existing oil so you can put in your brand new .63 quarts of oil. I would do this anyway, because I think it's best to use synthetic oil in small engines (they last much longer), and you want to drain out any conventional oil the factory left in before you add synthetic. Engine starts on 1st or 2nd pull but I recommend you use the premium high octane gas (91 or 93 octane) and put Sta-Bil Fuel stabilizer in the fuel before adding it to the generator. Small engines do much better with high octane gas and a fuel stabilizer in the gas. I have a riding lawn mower, push lawn mower, a gas weed eater, and a gas powered pressure washer and I've followed the above fuel and oil advice for years and have had trouble free operation in all my small engine devices. Anyway I bought this generator for emergency power to power my forced air furnace (825 watts running load), refrigerator (1300 watts running load), movie room equipment (400 watts running load), and my home office (200 watts running load), plus maybe a few low watt fluorescent light bulbs (100 watts or so). Even with all of that running there is still plenty of budget left in the 3500 watts this generator can continuously deliver! It's also nice that it has 4000 watt peak load to handle the forced air furnace and refrigerator motor start-up demands. Champion customer service told me the 3.8 gallons of gas will last 10 - 12 hours if the average load on the generator is 1750 watts. Therefore if you don't want to store tons of gas to endure a days long power-outage, you may want to look into purchasing a siphon pump to get gas out of your parked cars for the generator if you really need to and can't get to a gas station because of a bad blizzard or something. Amazon sells several siphon pumps very cheaply, so I would add one of these to your emergency generator kit. You'll also want to purchase the extension cords you need to run to things you want to power, unless you want to connect this to a transfer switch (but that will add a few hundred to your total bill). When you do purchase extension cords for this generator, I strongly recommend purchasing 12 gauge extension cords (See: Yellow Jacket 2883 12/3 Heavy-Duty 15-Amp SJTW Contractor Extension Cord with Lighted Ends, 25-Feet) because those are capable of carrying 15 amps for the 25 - 50 feet or so you may need to connect to high amp devices (furnace, refrigerator, etc). Again you can connect the generator to a transfer switch that connects to your house panel, but those are expensive and you really need a licensed electrician to install them for you, so all of this is going to cost a few hundred, and for me the extension cords + the inlet plug solution I made for a couple of windows (see below), was more than adequate and kept the cost down for what really is an emergency power solution you'll hopefully use once per year or less.

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To connect the generator to power my furnace, I took the furnace covers off and located the 2 power leads coming from the switch that gets pressed when the covers are on (a black wire for hot, and a white wire for neutral). These had standard blade type connectors, so I cut a heavy duty extension cord I had lying around to the right length, stripped the ends of the 3 wires, and crimped on these blade connectors to the black and white wire ends (along with an alligator clip to connect the green ground wire from the power cord to a bare piece of metal inside the furnace). You can get the crimp on blade connectors and alligator clips for some change at radio shack and cut any 14 gauge or lower 3-prong extension cord for this purpose. FYI before you connect the generator to your furnace you'll want to make sure to shut off the furnace breaker at your breaker panel so the wires coming from there don't touch bare metal in the furnace and short out when the utility power does finally come back on. This easy to make custom power cord plugged into the generator and powered the 825 watt forced air furnace no problem! It was awesome! I also purchased a generator inlet plug receptacle (See: Leviton 4937 Weatherproof Inlet on Flush Mount Wallplate with Aluminum Cover, Straight Blade Receptacle, Gray) and mounted it on the outside house wall right next to my furnace (so the generator could plug in there outside with a standard extension cord) and then wired that inlet plug to a standard house outlet inside on the same wall to plug in the custom plug to the furnace, this way I didn't have to run a cord through an open window in the middle of a blizzard. I wired this same setup on 2X4 boards that were cut to fit in the bottom of a couple of my house windows. This way these 2X4 boards (which had the generator inlet plug on 1 side, and a standard house outlet on the other side) could be placed in the bottom of a window and the window closed on top of that board. This provided a convenient and weather proof way to connect things in the house to the generator running outside without having to run extension cords through the windows and therefore having them cracked during cold weather and blizzards. These were cheap and easy to make if you purchase a couple of the generator inlet plugs above (not available at Lowes or home depot) and a few standard house outlets and outlet boxes. If you do wire some generator outlets, spend the extra change and make them 20 amp outlets with yellow 20 amp NM house wire connecting them, you'll be glad you did, especially if several high amp loads end up getting plugged in there during a power outage. In order to see the full 3500 watts of this generator, you'll need to make use of both the 20 amp standard plug on the generator (I plug my furnace and movie room into this one) and the 25 amp twist lock generator plug (I plug the refrigerator, my office, and lights into this one). To do that you'll need to purchase a twist lock plug that converts into 2 standard 15/20 amp outlets (See: Coleman Cable 01915 3-Foot Generator Power Cord Adapter, 10/3 Splitter Y Adapter, L5-30P to (2) Lighted 5-20R). So for $350 or so spent on this generator, plus maybe another $150 or so in extension cords and other miscellaneous supplies mentioned above, I have a decent emergency power solution. This was great for me because I didn't want to spend a thousand or several thousand dollars for something that again will only get used once per year or less.

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I bought this back in December 2010 so I've had some time to work the bugs out. It arrived on time and in great shape although the box was rough. This generator starts-up on the 2nd pull every time. When adding oil, make sure you triple it, directions for oil level are incorrect. Noise level is moderate but quieter and lighter than other generators I have owned. One wierd gripe.....the handle falls directly over the exhaust port, not a big deal but it's a design flaw. Wheel kit really adds to the package but make sure all the hardware is included in the wheel kit. BTW, I also ordered the Coleman 10/3 Y splitter cable along with this order. Nice beefy cable and it works great but it won't make a solid connection to the generator and it falls out constantly. Nice concept, it works, but it's a hastle getting it to stay connected. My opinion, order this generator but leave the cable behind.